Being one of the most significant rest scenes on the Silk Road for 1500 years, Uzbekistan is still considered a divine pitstop for travellers. In the first chapter “Uzbekistan pre-travel hacks to know” I shared the essential information for designing a memorable and hassle-free trip to this fascinating Central Asian destination. Now, you know how to arrange transportation to and within Uzbekistan, the domestic flight advantage, the taxi tricks, the Railways’ peculiarities and train features, local Internet, and telecommunication trends. And yes, I am totally biased, despite being ripped off (once) at Bukhara Train Station. 

As promised in the first article, next, I am going to upgrade the basic story with more information about the Uzbek currency, using credit cards, local food (must-taste), what to never do, the language, day trips, and how exceptional and one-of-a-kind the Uzbeks are. Later, I am planning to assign a separate travel story about the main points of my tour – Samarkand, Shahrisabz, Bukhara, and Tashkent for the completion of the picture. It’s time to sit back, relax and enjoy the journey.🙂

Uzbek currency

Highly recommended to have it in your pocket! The Uzbek national currency is called Som. It’s exotic like the country, each banknote contains many zeros. When I landed at Samarkand International Airport, suddenly became super rich, holding in my hand 1 160 000 Som. Did you count the digits? Indeed, it’s more than 1 million. So, technically it’s correct to claim Uzbekistan is the land of millionaires because every Uzbek possesses at least 1 million Som.

My 1 160 000 Som, withdrawn from the ATM at the airport, were equal to 100 USD. I felt proud, a bit dizzy, and confident of being a millionaire …for the second time in my life (the first time was in Indonesia). Such a memorable moment, isn’t it?! But in a country where a single taxi ride is about 25 000 Som, a public toilet usage costs 2000 Som, the average single sightseeing ticket is about 40 000 Som, and lunch between 80 to 100 000 better be a millionaire. 

The banknotes are from 1000, 5000, 10 000, 20 000, 50 000, and 100 000 Som. I would recommend always having the 5, 10, and 20 ones to prevent the vendor’s reaction:” I have no change, sorry”. Having cash is a must in Uzbekistan. If you go to the market (called Bazaar), plan road trip stops for buying watermelon, nuts, dry fruits, or herbs (along the way), want to collect souvenirs, scarves, or traditional clothing, bear in mind the payment is always in cash. 

I have never seen any price tags in Uzbekistan, except in the international airport Duty-Free Shops. Usually, the price is dependent on the vendor’s personal judgment. As fancier the buyer looks, as higher it goes. If you speak Russian, the chance to get a lower fare is sensible. If you are an English-speaking (only) tourist, the highest possible rate is meant for you. Take it or…better heavily negotiate it. 

The easiest way to convert the local currency into USD is about 11 000 Som = 1 USD. I have never exchanged USD or Euro for Som. Every time I needed cash, headed directly to the ATM (called Bankomat). There is a tall, blue-colored ATM that works only with Visa cards. I would recommend using that one as it lets you withdraw with no conversion or service fee. The only time I was unable to find such an ATM and used whatever was available, the deducted extra fee was about 3 USD. 

ATMs are everywhere, and you cannot run short of them. My experience proves they are always loaded with cash, work properly, save you time, and nerves, prevent loss of money (expected with the exchange rate), and serve with no mistakes. By the way, most of the street vendors accept USD as well, or a combination of Som and USD. Euro is not so popular and could be tricky in conversion, so better bring USD cash in 1, 5, 10, and 20 bucks. 

Credit and Debit cards

Prior to my trip, I read quite a lot of blogs and watched YouTube videos of travelers’ tips for visiting Uzbekistan. They didn’t recommend any debit or credit cards to be used as the post terminal system is not well developed in Uzbekistan. And they were right. Of course, there are spots you can pay by credit card but it’s not certain.

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I managed to pay with both – MasterCard and Visa, but the most popular, preferred, and accepted card within the country is Visa. I used only debit cards and avoided credit ones. My Visa debit card let me withdraw ATM cash with no extra fee. Also had been widely admitted in hotels, Railway stations, and sightseeing ticket kiosks. There is no way to pay by card in a taxi. Most of the restaurants I dined at required cash as well. 

In the capital Tashkent, your credit card is likely to be accepted but the province is a different story. Most of the hotels I reserved on booking.com didn’t require a credit card to secure the booking. So, arriving at the spot, you should check how your payment is going to be handled. I had a ridiculous situation in Bukhara. The reservation was for a stunning traditional house in the old town. I arrived around 11 pm, welcomed by a mature man (later found it was the owner’s father). He confirmed I can pay by card, so I provided mine.

 Then the drama began. In return, he handed me his credit card for wiring the amount over. I was stunned. Both of us were speaking Russian so it was impossible to have a misunderstanding. It took about 30 minutes back and forth, wondering about the lack of a post terminal. At midnight, he called his grandson who finally clarified a local application (similar to PayPal) has been used for such transactions, but his granddad had no clue about it. Super sleepy, annoyed but entertained, I paid in cash. 

The language

Before my Uzbekistan trip, I believed fluent Russian and English + mediocre Turkish will be enough to make me feel comfortable having smooth communication with the locals. Couldn’t be more mistaken! Let’s start with the Uzbek language. It sounds like a very remote Turkish dialect pronounced with a mellow Russian accent. It is so distant to the Turkish roots, though, that if an Uzbek and a Turk talk to each other they will understand probably about 15 to 20% of the conversation. The grammar is similar to the Turkish one, but the vocabulary is full of Persian words. I had a chat with many Uzbek people so most of them claim to speak Uzbek, Tadjik, and Persian language, obviously alike. So, mistake number 1 – my limited knowledge of Turkish was useless in Uzbekistan. 

Being part of the USSR for 67 years, it’s expected Russian would be widely spoken in Uzbekistan. Sort of. It’s widely spoken among people in their 60s but rarely among youngsters. I felt so confident approaching two gentlemen in their 30s from the Samarkand Tourist Police. I asked politely in Russian about directions and a shop’s working time. They looked confused, so I repeated my questions slowly. Shrugging shoulders and an avalanche of Uzbek words was the response. 

It happened many times, but the older generation still speaks it fluently as they used to study Russian at school. The younger people who happened to speak Russian were either forced to learn it by their parents, or their career path required it. For Uzbeks who speak at least Russian is easier to jump on a better-paid job position. English as an upgrade is considered a big plus and leads to a quick promotion. 

During my road trips, I heard Uzbeks speaking English, Italian, Spanish, and French but they were all professional tour guides hired by foreign visitors. Randomly, to meet an English-speaking Uzbek is a miracle, except for the ones occupied in 5-star hospitality.

Day Trips

It’s my favorite way to see more and out of the initial plan while visiting a country. Viator, TripAdvisor, and even the Booking.com “What to see or do in a city” section offer plenty of organized day trips. I successfully completed it in Mexico, Croatia, Slovenia, Cyprus, Tanzania, and Indonesia. The system is simple. There is an offer, usually in a group, with the agenda and conditions clearly announced. You choose the date, buy a ticket online, receive it via email address, and verify it with the guide on the bus, van, or car upon pickup at the hotel. Always cheap as it’s a shared trip, easy, comfortable, hassle-free, and works perfectly with transportation, guide, and activities provided within the offer. 

Not in Uzbekistan though. The online announced day trips were super expensive and often individually organized. I contacted six different travel agencies with a request to be added to a day trip group to Shahrisabz (the hometown of Tamerlane, a popular day trip destination from Samarkand). All replies, with no exception, offered an individually designed day trip for about 175 USD. It includes transportation, a guide, and a few extra stops on the route for photoshoots. Just a day before my departure to Uzbekistan I received a bit cheaper offer – 120 USD for 6 to 8 hours day trip to Shahrisabz. Of course, I declined them all.

Then in forums about Uzbekistan, I bumped into info for tourists negotiating day trips on the spot, directly in their hotels or guest houses, arranging it with local drivers and guides. So, I took the risk to search for it locally upon arrival. And guess what, it worked out. I got a day trip to Shahrisabz for 60 USD, with a guide driver only at my disposal. The car was new, clean, and comfortable but …no air-conditioning (remember my first article, I warned you), and all windows opened as expected. 

The smiling, fluently Russian-speaking guy in his 60s called Rustam did a great job. He knew all the important stops on the way, provided me with significant info, introduced me to traditional Uzbek food, was patient, calm, and chatty. A fantastic memorable Shahrisabz day trip! My advice – negotiate a day trip at your hotel upon arrival rather than booking the advertised online in advance.

Uzbeks 

I got totally smitten with them.  They are simple, calm, smiling, humble, hospitable, generous, and mostly honest (rare exceptions). The general picture of the Uzbek nation’s identity is highly positive. They are naturally curious and would like to communicate and soak in every new and unusual encounter. Would go the extra mile to help or provide the necessary info. During my Uzbekistan journey, I was blessed to meet plenty of polite and welcoming locals that represent their country in the best possible way. 

The story with my day trip driver Rustam shared above, is only one of the many I have. When I gave Rustam 14 000 Som to buy a huge ripe watermelon from a street vendor, he advised me to stay in the car, negotiated the price in the Uzbek language, and got the best offer. The change of 4000 Som he could quietly put in his pocket but offered it back instead (of course I didn’t accept it). 

On the way back to Samarkand we had a rest stop at a beautiful restaurant with an amazing view to Tahtakaracha mountains. Somehow, he arranged to get our watermelon cooled and served free of charge. When earlier in Shahrisabz, I treated him to lunch, he suggested a simple traditionally designed restaurant with super delicious food where he made sure we pay the Uzbek rate, not the foreign one. 

If you are already impressed, wait for what’s coming next. Upon my arrival at Samarkand, I found out my cell phone charger was dead. The problem was in the plug, not in the wire. So, I decided to look for a shop after my sightseeing walk. Usually, such plugs are available in supermarket chains (not present in Samarkand). So, here I am, checking small shops one by one on the way to the city center. 

Finally, got advised where to find one and confidently entered the recommended store. A guy in his 20s welcomed me in Russian, listened to my inquiry, and immediately handed me a brand-new plug for 30 000 Som (less than 3 USD). I pulled out my debit card, but the payment was possible only in cash. Well…I didn’t have any and admitted it. His answer was:” No problem, you can bring the money later, whenever you have it”. I got dumbfounded! As the conversation was in Russian, I repeated to make sure we both were on the same page. He just simply confirmed the same. 

In my entire life, I have never received anything free of charge in a shop, regardless of its value. Ulugbek (the salesman’s name) got me totally off guard. Speechless for a while, unable to believe such people still exist, I felt guilty and ashamed. That feeling made me ask for an ATM around. He quietly pointed in that direction. Four ATMs just steps away, but Ulugbek offered me to bring money whenever I have it?! Unbelievable! I got curious and asked him what if I never come back with those 30 000 Som? He just shrugged shoulders and said: “Well…it’s not going to be the first time but most of the people return and pay anyway, even in a month”.

I withdrew the cash and paid my plug. Meanwhile, another guy who witnessed the situation stepped in and asked in fluent English where I am from. Word for word, I found he studies in the USA; they are friends and neighbors with Ulugbek (who happened to be the owner of the store) and was visiting him at work. We had a joyful chat for about 10 minutes after which they offered to show me some remarkable but remote sightseeing. My expected question was how much it was going to cost. They looked confused: “Of course, nothing”. 

In the middle of the day, those two Uzbeks of my younger son’s age closed the shop and after a while, I was seating in a Chevrolet Spark, heading to Shah -i- Zinda, Islam Karimov memorial complex, the 15th-century observatory, and the tomb of the prophet St. Daniel/Doniyar. They drove me to places only the locals know, treated me to water and ice cream, took photos of me in front of the sightseeing, and in the end categorically refused to get any money. We spent around four hours together, chatting non-stop in English and Russian, had so much fun, they made my day and kicked off my Uzbekistan journey in a fabulous way. Regardless of how many times I thanked them it will not be enough to express how grateful, impressed, and surprised I was. 

Uzbek food

There are certain meals you should taste in Uzbekistan. The most popular and must-try is the Plov. It’s a cooked long grain rice, onion, garlic, chickpeas, raisins, shredded carrot, herbs, and beef or lamb chunks on the top served with a pinch of sheep fat/tallow. Juicy, mild, and delicious. I tried it twice – in Shahrisabz and Bukhara with a slight difference in the ingredients but always worth it.

The locals say the Plov for Uzbeks is what the pasta is for Italians, a signature country dish, that could be served at weddings, and family gatherings, suitable for both – lunch and dinner. The usual side dish is pickles but in summer I recommend complementing it with fresh salad (naturally grown under the sun tomatoes and cucumbers). My family and friends know I am not a rice eater, but the Plov is mouth-watering. 

Another Uzbek traditional meal to taste is Manti (Манты). Kind of dumplings stuffed with spiced meat mince, wrapped in a dough sheet, boiled, or steamed. I tried it once, as I am not a big dumplings fan, and it was interesting to experience. The Uzbeks believe the Manti originates from the era of the Mongol empire. It seems like the entire Central Asian region cooks Manti and the variety comes with the size and the ingredients used for the stuffing. 

For those who are meat admirers, I would recommend trying Tandir Kabob. Traditionally, it should be cooked in clay ovens made into the ground but nowadays grills or modern ovens are used instead. The mutton meat is marinated with salt, pine needles, and spices. There is a ritual, I am not aware of, during the cooking the meat is getting smoked with a wood tandir that gives a special taste. 

The Uzbeks claim the Tandir Kabob was the traditional dish of the nomad tribes. In a country with large steppes and lots of sheep herds, all you need is fire and some herbs to cook it. On the way from Samarkand to Shahrisabz I saw lots of roadside small restaurants advertising mostly Tandir Kabob on big boards. I tasted it out of curiosity – tender grilled meat served with rosemary and roasted potato. I guess it’s the tourist common version. 

Then in Tashkent, I ate something which doesn’t sound appealing but was super tasty – beef tongue soup. This creamy substance was recommended to me by a local Uzbek woman, and she was right, I was pleasantly surprised.

I also ordered kind of a Shepherd’s Salad (Chaban), complemented with shredded walnuts and fresh dill on the top. The surprise here comes with the dressing – pomegranate balsamic, jelly texture, and slightly sweetened, truly delicious. At the same restaurant, I saw on the menu Kumis – mare’s milk. It’s traditional for nomadic tribes from the steppes but quite exotic for foreign tourists. The taste of the mare’s milk was unexpected and nothing like regular cow milk. It reminded me mostly of sweetened almond milk. The color is whiter, and the texture is lighter than the cow milk.

And at the end of this blog about this divine pitstop on the Silk Road, let me advise you a few

things to never do in Uzbekistan

+ Never comment, criticize, or speak disrespectfully about the late President Islam Karimov. He is an icon in Uzbekistan, the first president of the independent country after the collapse of the USSR in 1991. 

+ Do not show much flesh, especially related to women. Being quite open-minded Uzbekistan is still an Islamic country and does not tolerate frivolous clothing. Dress moderately!

+ Do not compare Uzbeks with their neighbor nations, they won’t like it. 

+ Do not get ripped off (very likely to happen), do your research, and come prepared.

Uzbekistan is a fantastic still opening to international tourism destination. It’s exotic, wild, surprising, unpolished, and somehow encapsulated in time in a good way. I would love to visit and explore it again as a part of my next bucket list extended Central Asia trip. Fingers crossed!